A Day in Charleston



East Bay Homes

HISTORIC CHARLESTON, SC

walkway along E. Bay Street

It was a gorgeous day in Charleston. 

A. Paul & I started our day with a walk along E. Bay Street that skirts around the historic downtown peninsula and Battery Park, where Civil War cannons are frozen in time.  The southern mansions with their covered porticos were washed with sunlight.  The residents here were awakening from the winter season, painting, planting, and cleaning this pristine corner of the world.

After stopping in for a morning meal at East Bay Meeting House, where local resident Brit Washburn gave us an inside rundown on the art scene, we ventured along Broad Street to the section aptly named "Gallery Row." There, we were met with warm hospitality in the many galleries we visited.  What we were surprised to see was the diversity of the gallery collections.  Given the historic nature of the area, we expected to see much more emphasis on native "low country" scenes and though there was a strong showing of these works, there was also a substantial collection of regional and international artists' works of urban scenes, figurative works, and abstract art.  When we inquired about this at the Wells Gallery,  Director Keli Tolley stated that her gallery used to show mainly local artists' works  but the trend has shifted to meet the needs of the changing collector base.  There was evidence of this in most of the galleries we visited. To see the works at Wells Gallery you can visit http://www.wellsgallery.com/

Margie Veitel (L) & Kerry
at Edward Dare Gallery

"Matilda" by Roberta Remy

The Edward Dare Gallery does feature some gems of "low country" artwork by Roberta Remy.  Remy visits the area and is enraptured by the long standing history of sweetgrass weavers who, for decades, have graced the corners of Charleston. Having spoken to one of the street weavers, Jennifer, the spaces in which they sit are handed down through the family.  The corner where Jennifer has woven her baskets for the past 27 years was occupied by her mother for over 50 years.      


Scott Amrhein Glass at
Martin Gallery

 At the Martin Gallery, A. Paul & I were surrounded by monumental sculpture, paintings, and glass.  One artist's work that did capture our attention was the metallic glazed and etched art glass by Scott Amrhein.  The simplistic, fluid lines and crackled metallic glazed glass on ironwork stands were striking with the light filtering through the window.  http://www.martingallerycharleston.com/

Kerry (L) with Maggie Kruger (R) at M Gallery

Our most informative encounter was with Maggie Kruger of the M Gallery.  For many years, Maggie operated a successful art business and artist in residence program in Florida. When the overall economy declined, her business did as well.  Though she continues her artist in residence workshops in Florida, she relocated her entire gallery business to Charleston after driving across the country scouting out the best art community in which to move.  Though she is a recent addition to the gallery scene here, she is already benefitting from Charleston's strong art collector base. Maggie is a savvy business woman with an innovative approach to developing the relationship between her artists' works and collectors. We had a wonderful visit with her and hope that she will take us up on our offer for her to visit us someday.  Thanks, Maggie, for given us your time. We wish you well.  http://www.mgalleryoffineart.com/

Mr & Mrs. Hereford with Kerry,
A. Paul & Mickey



Mickey Williams in his studio-gallery



At day's end, we met up with Mickey Williams at his studio gallery on East Bay Street.  http://www.mickeywilliams.com/  It happened that A. Paul and Mickey had mutual artist acquaintances from the Provincetown area.  (Guess we just missed you Jerome by a week or so.)  As the two of them engaged in the artist world of Provincetown and Charleston, studio visitors, Mr. & Mrs. Hereford, joined in the interaction.   We lingered with Mickey learning more about him, his life, and work.  According to Mickey, the arts here have been in survival mode and only recently have been showing signs of growth.                      

A. Paul (L) with Mickey Williams

Reflecting on this day, A. Paul & I were both struck by just how connected the community is to the arts. No matter where we went, the individuals who work and or live here, both young & old, were knowledgable about the artists, galleries, events, history, and not simply on a superficial basis.  There is a lot to savor here in Charleston and it will take a few more days for us to really digest all that we have learned and have seen.  Tomorrow, we will explore Charleston's Gibbes Museum of Art  http://www.gibbesmuseum.org/ then off to Beaufort, SC and landing in Savannah, GA by nightfall.

Wilmington, NC to Charleston SC

WILMINGTON, NC

The day was blessed with abundant sunshine to start off our day in Wilmington, NC.  Wilmington is a lovely, picturesque town located along the Cape Fear River. Our introduction to its downtown was meeting up with a horse drawn carriage making its way down the moss drenched tree main street. We followed along, eventually parking along the riverfront. We were immediately taken with the view of the river with its full view of the Battleship North Carolina imposingly stationed near Eagles Island across the water.  A short distance down the river sat the paddleboat Henrietta III.  One could easily be lured away by the sights but our focus was to find out if the arts were alive and well in Wilmington, NC. 

Kerry with Pat Holleman (R)
at Port City Pottery



Cotton Exchange

Our first stop was in an historic Cotton Exchange building dating back to the late 19th & 20th centuries, which now houses several artist co-ops and shops in its 8 historical buildings.  There, I met up with Pat Holleman, a local potter, and Dick Heiser, a ceramic artist; both show their works at the Port City Pottery & Fine Crafts co-op. The co-op

Kerry with Dick Heiser (R)
at Port City Pottery

 began about 4 years ago to meet
 a need  for ceramists to show their wares. It currently consists of a core group of 18 artists, all who live within 30 minutes of the co-op. Pat's work, as shown in the image, has a minimal line with a Japanese stylistic influence. Dick's art is fired ceramic using a wood kiln process.  Dick explained that using a wood kiln leaves a less carbon footprint in producing his artwork, an important fact in the world we live in today. Dick is preparing a firing session this weekend and offered us an invitation  which unfortunately we will miss as we move on to Georgia tomorrow.  You can check out Pat and Dick's works as well as the other 16 artists at their website    http://www.portcitypottery.com/

Connor's mom, Caryn (L)
at the Golden Gallery

Across the hall, A. Paul was visiting with Caryn Croom at the Golden Gallery.  He was taken by the story surrounding a group of paintings being displayed in Mary Ellen Golden's watercolor gallery.  The paintings were created by Caryn's son Connor, who, at the age of 7, was diagnosed with Pervasive Developmental Disorder, a form of autism.  It was through Connor's sister Chelsea, who was preparing for her Senior Project on the use of art as early intervention in autistic therapy, that the Croom family was introduced to art as possible therapy for Connor.  The results were positive, offering  a means for helping Connor to be more calm and focused.  Today Connor and Caryn paint everyday, forging a bond through art. 



Merrion Kennedy (R) at New Elements discussing
Ann Parks McCray's
"Red Boats, New Day" o/c

On the recommendation of Pat at Port City, we visited New Elements, one of the oldest galleries in Wilmington as well as Justin  Ferreri's  sculpture studio. Merrimon Kennedy, gallery owner & director of New Elements Gallery, represents a diverse group of regional artists, including ceramics, jewelry, and paintings. New Elements has been an icon in the arts in Wilmington for over 25 years, representing all original works.  When we arrived, Merrimon was preparing for the Fourth Friday Gallery Walk, which is held throughout the entire year.  As with the other artists we met, Merrimon was informative about the overall art scene in Wilmington.   You can visit her artists' works at http://www.newelementsgallery.com/

L to R:  Justine, Denise, A. Paul, & Linda

Justine Ferreri's Sculpture studio was next on our list.  Justine's studio is located  at the Chandler Wharf, a renovatd 19thc wharf warehouse on a cobblestone street along the waterfront.  Inside the studio, A. Paul & I had the great pleasure of meeting not only Justine but two other artists, potter Denise Bramley and Linda Anne Hartman, all working out of the "clay goddess studio".  Their whimsical works matched their witty senses of humor and dynamic personalities.  We could have spent hours discussing everything under the sun with these three artists.  A. Paul felt right at home in their studio. You can see these artists' works at their websites:  http://www.creationsbyjustine.com/ and http://www.lindaannehartmanart.com/.  Denise we did not have a website for you but would be happy to pass it on if you contact us.

entrance into
Cameron Art Museum

Armed with insider information on the current major changes taking place at the Cameron Art Museum, we decided to visit the museum and see for ourselves what is going on at this newly built 40,000 square foot facility.  The museum was once located in the downtown section of Wilmington but moved to the suburbs with the donation of land and support.  The museum has recently suffered the loss of directorship which seems to be a controversial subject amongst the townsfolks.  Upon approach to the facility, it was clear that the museum was well designed, aesthetically. The empty parking lot spoke volumes and, once inside, it was clear that the museum was in trouble.  We were met by two very friendly staff who made it a strong point that cameras were not permitted. We were told that there were only two exhibits available to be viewed and after paying $8 a piece we were shocked and disappointed that the two exhibits were  the Richard McMahan mini paintings along the wall near the main desk and the several salons of sparsely hung African American Heart to Hand quilts created in Alabama between 1945- 2001.  As beautifully rendered as these quilts were, the entire space was less than ideally curated, with no permanent exhibits available for viewing in any part of the museum.  We left the museum shaking our heads with a greater understanding of the sentiments expressed by the townspeople.  We can only hope that the museum will find its direction in the future and that the community pulls together to represent the great works that are within its grasp. The museum's website in case you would like to follow its changes http://cameronartmuseum.com/ .

Crossing Bridge into Historic
Downtown Charleston

The remainder of our day was spent driving through Myrtle Beach for a quick stop for a bite amongst the giant towers of cement and viewing yet another beautiful skyshow as we arrived into Charleston, SC.

Tomorrow, we begin our exploration of over 40 galleries in Charleston's historic downtown and photographing its southern architecture.

A few direct comments for our followers:

Clint from Principle Gallery in VA, thanks,  I think 3 times a charm?   Catherine, picked up your email about skipping Myrtle Beach and stopping further down in Huntington while we were sitting at a grill on Myrtle Beach. By the way,there is a small 10 room museum in Myrtle Beach but we were still shaking our heads over the last one.  It is worth checking out the website http://www.myrtlebeachartmuseum.org/  We will keep it in mind for another trip.  Thanks, Brian, for always taking the time to send us emails and comments, we appreciate them all.

Chrysler Museum, Norfolk Virginia

CHRYSLER MUSEUM


Tiffany Glass Lamp



If you have any reason to travel to the Norfolk, Virginia area, if you do nothing else, take the time to visit the Chrylser Museum.  Hands down it is by far one of the best collections of art we have had the pleasure of viewing thus far on our trip.  If you are a glass aficionado then it is a must, as the museum has an extant collection of Tiffany, Stueben, Mt. Washington, 19th century, and contemporary glass, be it blown, pressed, decorative or functional.  The entire lower level contained no fewer than 12 salons of beautifully displayed glass. An entire room was devoted to Tiffany glass objects and windows.

The other 210,000 square feet of the museum contain collections of Ancient & Non Europeans works from Greco-Roman to Indian Islamic.  Two rooms were devoted to American  & Art Nouveau furniture. Two levels of very well curated rooms contained 13th to 20th century paintings & objects, five rooms of contemporary art, two with kinetic interactive modern art, salons of photographic work, American Sculpture, African-American art, the list goes on. 


Visitor Service Desk



kerry with interactive
artwork



kerry with
interactive artwork



"Into Outer Space"
Hans Hofmann

Beyond the collections contained in the Renaissance inspired structure, part of the Chrylser Museum's strength is in its foundations in the community, starting with how the collection ended up in Norfolk.  Jeff Tefft, at visitors service, was cordial and informative relating the story around the original Chrylser collection and its connection to the town.  Walter Chrylser, Jr., an idustrialist & art collector, originally housed his selection of art in Provincetown, Massachusetts.  It quickly outgrew his space in an abandoned church in Provincetown.  Not being able to reach an agreement with the town for a more permanent and larger space, his wife, Jean, a native of Norfolk, suggested bringing the collection to Norfolk, which the town readily embraced.  Thus, in 1971,  began the start of the Chrysler Museum in Norfolk, which continues to grow and reach out to the community through educational programs, a reference library, sketching in the galleries, auctions, memberships, gallery talks, and  family days .  The facility offers audio guides, is wheelchair accessbile, has a cafe and museum shop.  The price of entry is free but donations are accepted.  



View outside the Chrysler



According to Jeff, the Chrysler will expand  its facilities by Dec 2011, creating a full glass blowing center in an adjacent purchased building .  It will be worth returning to see the new glass center. If you would like to learn more about the Chrysler Museum you can visit their website at http://www.chrysler.org/

After the museum visit, we dropped by the D'Art Center in Norfolk to see the working artists' studios.  D'art is a regional, not for profit center for the visual arts.  According to the Executive Director, Susan Bernard, the center opened in1986 and relocated to its present location in June 2005.  There are 50 resident artists on site, whose works range from sculpting to paintings to glass art. The center offers workshops and has five changing art galleries.  You can visit the center's site ate http://www.d-artcenter.org/



D'Art Director Susan Bernard (L)
with Kerry Filiberto (R)



DRIVE TO WILMINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA

Given our extended visit to the Chrysler Museum, A. Paul and I had to keep our stops in Beaufort and Morehead short in order to make it to Wilmington, 7 hours away.  Though we did not encounter any additional arts to blog about, we do have some wonderful images of the weather we encountered and the interplay between the sun and clouds, which constantly entertained us throughout our drive.  Tomorrow we scout out Wilmington and then on to Myrtle Beach.

 

Phillips Collection in DC & Virginia Stops

WASHINGTON DC

testing the microphones
for President Obama



cameo shot with "The Man"

Before A. Paul and I left Washington D.C. today, President Obama invited us to the White House to offer a bit of Ptown advice for this evening's State of the Union speech.  We, of course, were happy to oblige.  (Forgive us, we couldn't resist a bit of  D.C. tourist indulgence.)

What we actually did do today was to visit the Phillips Collection prior to our departure to Virginia, making stops in Richmond, Williamsburg, and finally in Norfolk for the evening stay. 

PHILLIPS COLLECTION

Renoir

The Phillips Collection is located in the Dupont Circle area of D.C. It is America's first modern arts gallery established by the Phillips family in 1918 in memorandum for two deceased family members. It opened to the public in 1923.

Exterior of the original
Phillips residence & gallery

Central to the collection, purchased in 1923, is Renoir's "Luncheon of the Boating Party" as seen here.  With regards to this piece of work, a docent informed me of a conversation that took place between Barnes (Barnes Foundation in Philly) and Phillips, where Barnes boasted he possessed the largest collection of Renoir's works, whereby Phillips responded, "But I have the most important piece of Renoir's work."  Having seen both collections and standing in front of this particular imposing piece, there is clearly merit to Phillips' claim.



Degas

Throughout the original residence/gallery and  the Goh Annex extension (1989), one can find extensive collections of artists personally known to Phillips, such as Pierre Bonnard, who it is said was consistently compelled to want to alter his works hanging in the Phillips home when dining with them. In addition, one will find Rothkos, Gauguins, Degas, Picassos, Doves, Klees, and O'Keeffes, with Rothko, Dove, and Bonnard having individual salons dedicated to their works.

Beyond the collection, the Phillips is an architecture gem.  Unlike the 19th century architecture of the original space, the Goh Annex' architecture is an artful contemporary masterpiece of  line, form, and space. My eyes constantly roamed the interiors of the space almost as much as viewing the collection.



hanging silks along the stairwell



If you are unable to see the Phillips collection in person, it is possible to see this extraordinary group of work online  http://www.phillipscollection.org/

After a quick cup of coffee in the Phillips Cafe, we left D.C. and headed to our next stop, Richmond, Virginia.


looking down the spiral case, Phillips



 

RICHMOND

crossing from D.C. to Virginia

After being submerged and surrounded by art for days, it was impossible to not see art in everything around us, whether of the natural world or manmade.  As we left D.C.  the day was cloaked in gray and yet there was something so serene and harmonic in contrast to the hard, manmade  structures of the bridge crossing into Virginia that it begged to be memorialized photographically.

 

Once we arrived to Richmond it  was first to take a scenic drive down Monumental Avenue, the only road in America on the Historic Registry dotted with Confederate figures.  

Monumental Avenue

 

Richmond Virginia



After our scenic excursion, we dropped into the Crossroads Art Center, where we met up with Rachel, the center's Director.   On the outside approach, the Center did not appear to be too hopeful as it was located in a strip mall on the outskirts of the town.  However, once inside, it was clear that the center was what it claimed to be, an active arts center representing over 225 local and regional artists' works. 



Stonewall Jackson Monument

Crossroads Director, Rachel (L)
Kerry Filiberto (R)

Rachel provided us a tour of the center and discussed the works of some of the more  major artists of the center.  The center is laid out in individual "studios" for exhibiting artists' works, some choosing to share a studio space.  There are two working classrooms in the center, both occupied while we were visiting.  Artists must go through a juried process by an independent judging committee in order to acquire space at the facility.  Though we were hoping to meet artists in working studios, it was clear to see that there are many talented artists in the Richmond area.  You can visit the centers website at http://www.crossroadsartcenter.com/    We learned at the center that the second arts center scheduled to visit had recently closed so we thanked Rachel and headed out to our final destination for the day. 

Williamsburg to Norfolk



Williamsburg, VA

Outside Williamsburg

The day was coming to a close but we absolutely could not pass up Williamsburg without at least driving to see the main block of historic Williamsburg.  As quaint as the town was, it was the trip in and out of Williamsburg that held A. Paul's and my attention.  The changing reflection of the sky on water was too alluring to not stop and photograph and once we began we simply could not stop capturing the changing environment as we passed from sea level  at Williamsburg to below sea level under the Chesapeake Bay while on the Hampton Bridge to Norfolk.  We leave you with these images to end your day.  Tomorrow we take in the Chrysler Museum then off to scout out Beaufort, Morehead, and Wilmington NC.

 

 

Trees outside Williamsburg

Entering the tunnel under Chesapeake Bay



Norfolk



Smithsonian & National Gallery of Art

SMITHSONIAN


Smithsonian Institute Building

 It was a chilly day but the sun was in full force in D.C.  Today, A. Paul & I dedicated the full day to exploring the galleries along the Mall.  If you have never been in Washington, D.C.,  the Mall is not a shopping mall.  It is the major open park region sandwiched between Constitution and Independence Avenues, stretching between the Lincoln Memorial to the Capitol Building.  Pennsylvania Avenue lies on the hypotenuse connecting the Captiol Building in a straight line to the White House.  Along the sides of the Mall  and surrounding areas are where most major galleries and government buildings are located.   The natural starting spot for us along the Mall was the Smithsonian Institute, the world's largest research complex with mutilple galleries, national zoo, and research facilities, established in the late 1800s by the bequest of James Smithson, an English Chemist and mineralogist.  http://www.si.edu/   The Smithsonian serves as the central information center to its surrounding galleries.



 " The Balcony"  J. Whistler

Once we were acclimated to the lay of the galleries, we ventured off to the Freer and Sackler Galleries adjacent to the Smithsonian. Our main focus was to study the collection of the American painter James McNeill Whistler and collection of Asian Arts, which greatly influenced Whistler's work.  One of the highlights in the Whistler exhibit was the Peacock Room, a complete dining room designed by Thomas Jekyll for a London shipbuilder, Frederick Leland, one of Whistler's major patrons. The room was created to house Leland's major collection of blue & white asian 

The Peacock Room

porcelain. During the process of building the room,  the architect died unexpectedly and Whistler took over the project.  Towards the completion of the room, a rift developed  between Leland and Whistler resulting in Whistler's painting of the two fighting peacocks on the back wall.  To read more about Whistler's work and the Peacock Room, visit the Freer Sackler site http://www.asia.si.edu/ .



Exterior of Hirschhorn Gallery

 Next we changed up our viewing pace with contemporary arts at the Hirshhorn Gallery.  The building itself  is a marvel in contemporary architecture, befitting for the collection held within.


escalator into Hirschhorn



Franz Kline



The collection was rich with Koonigs, Calders, Dubuffets, Brancusis, Moores, and we were fortunate to even take in another Franz Kline.

Following our visit to Hirshhorn we wandered across the Mall, attempting to avoid the gathering rally ascending on the Capitol.  Nothing like being a part of the news in the making!

Pro Life Rally on DC
anniversary of Roe v Wade

We fled across the Mall to the National Gallery of Art where the rest of the day was to be consumed.  The NGA is extraordinary and monumental in all aspects, architecturally and breadth of collection.  We attempted to utilize the free self guided tour gadgets but found them inefficient as you had to hold it like a phone receiver and was limited in offering information on the pieces within any one salon of work. However, the collection itself more than made up for the loss of the guide.

Thomas Eakins "Study of Banjo Player"

The gallery collections ranged from early 13th to 16th century artists, Italian, Spanish, Netherlandish, German, Dutch and Flemish, to 18th - 19th century British, American, and French artists in the West Building.   After a quick bite in the gallery cafe and glance through the gallery bookstore, we were off to the East Building of Contemporary Arts to take in Warhol, Miro, O'Keefe, Giacometti, Hofmann and others.  After numerous hours of viewing art, A. Paul  I were gleefully on overload.  The rally outside was just winding down in time for us to take a brisk stroll back to the hotel several blocks away, ruminating on our visual indulgences.

"Repose" Sargent

Tomorrow we take in the Phillips Collection, a must see before we leave.  To do so means we must shift our driving schedule to accommodate our morning viewing.  We will be on the road to Richmond, Virginia and possibly land in Norfolk, Virginia by nightfall.  I will try to post the next blog tomorrow evening, if possible, but if not, certainly by the next day to discuss the Phillips Collection and other adventures along the way to Virginia's eastern coastline.

Last closing remarks, thank you Cliff from Principle Gallery in Alexandria for the name correction.  We are glad you found the blog successfully.

A. Paul among Matisse Cut Outs